I think I'm a nun-magnet. Not in a creepy sort of way, but this isn't the first time a sister has made a beeline for me. "I'm a photographer too," said Josette, seeing my cameras, before going on to share that both Pope Francis and Pope John Paul II had visited here.
‘Here’ was the Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta' Pinu, an impressive basilica rising from the open countryside, and the most important shrine in Gozo.
Gozo, located halfway between North Africa and Europe, is one of three islands that make up Malta – along with the island of Malta (confusingly) and tiny Comino. Smaller and greener than its sister island, Gozo moves at a far more laid-back pace.
"Have you visited the ÄŠitadella yet?" asked Josette, playing both spiritual and physical tour guide. As it happened, I had, walking its honey-coloured ramparts that morning for a sweeping view over Gozo's rolling fields. The Citadel, in the heart of the capital Victoria (known as Ir-Rabat in Maltese) can be seen from nearly everywhere on the island, and I'd been driven there by the man now waiting outside for me: Ian, of 'Gozo Taxi by Ian'.
A proud Gozitan, Ian had spent the morning giving me a humourous and insightful tour of the island. Picking me up from The Duke Boutique Hotel, our first stop had been the island's most impressive viewpoint, Xlendi (pron. 'Shlen-dee'). With a 17th century tower standing sentry over an imposing coastline, the view of the limestone cliffs carved by wind was nothing short of awe-inspiring.
When I said to Ian that Xlendi would be hard to beat, he just smiled. Driving to the north of the island, he parked us beside 350-year-old salt pans stretching out next to the sea. Climbing the dozen or so steps to the 'salt store', I was lucky enough to meet a fifth-generation salt harvester, who sold me a bag of crystals her family had scraped up over the summer months.
With the salt safely stashed in my bag, we headed back across the island to Dwejra's Inland Sea. Connected to the Mediterranean through a tunnel in the cliffs, you can take a 15-minute boat ride into the open sea for some of the best diving around Gozo. Worth knowing: if you're by yourself, you either have to wait for others to arrive or hire an entire boat yourself (and that wait can be a long one).
From there, it was on to our final destination of the day: Gozo's – and perhaps Malta's – finest beach, the crescent-shaped Ramla il-Ħamra. Literally meaning 'red-sanded beach’, Ramla is refreshingly free of crowds, and families were making the most of the gentle, warm waters as kids ran around on the rusty red sands. It was a fitting farewell to Gozo.
The next morning, I took the 45-minute highspeed ferry to Malta. If Gozo's charm lay in its natural beauty, Malta's lay in something far more dramatic: a history of sieges, knights, and empires.
Unfortunately for Malta, geography made it a target. For thousands of years, control of the island meant control of the Mediterranean's sea routes – a prize fought over and claimed by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, Sicilians, French, and British. But it's the Knights of the Order of St John whose presence still defines the island today.
Refugees from the Crusades, the knights had been chased from Jerusalem to Rhodes before finally settling in Malta. It was here, in 1565, that they won their greatest victory: 500 knights and 8,000 Maltese held out against 30,000 Ottomans in the Great Siege of Malta. Leading the defence was 70-year-old Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette, after whom the capital, Valletta, is named.
As an avid history buff, there was one place in Valletta on my ‘must see’ list: the Grand Master's Palace. Once the official residence of the Knights' Grand Masters, it now houses the Office of the President of Malta, along with an impressive medieval armoury. Walking between rows and rows of elaborate armour, mounted swords, and flintlock muskets, I doubt I closed my mouth once – five centuries of warfare lined the walls on either side.
Keen to learn about one more siege I headed to The Malta Experience, an audio-visual history of the country. During World War II, Malta endured more bombing than London did in the Blitz, as Germany and Italy tried to force it into submission. Under siege for two and a half years, the island held out until convoys broke through with vital supplies – earning it the George Cross, Britain's highest civilian honour for bravery, which still flies in the corner of the flag today.
Walking the streets back to my hotel, I looked up at the colourful gallariji, the enclosed wooden balconies that I'd first noticed on Gozo. I raised my camera to take a photo, then paused, thinking of Josette – wondering what the nun would be photographing next.
Originally published in Stuff