"Squinting up, we could make out a young girl in a red helmet scrambling towards the top. The crowd was told to shush. Plaça de Sant Juame fell silent as we held our collective breath..." < Back Tower to the People 8 Oct 2019 "Squinting up, we could make out a young girl in a red helmet scrambling towards the top. The crowd was told to shush. Plaça de Sant Juame fell silent as we held our collective breath..." In the cover story of today's New Zealand Herald Travel section you'll find out what happened next, plus get a taste of what else goes on in Barcelona's Festival of Festivals. < Previous Next >

We’d been in the village for less than half an hour before we were propositioned. Usually, I’m a little wary of strangers inviting me to their house but the tall man in the grey hoodie insisted. “It’s only three minutes away,” he said with a straight face and slight accent. “You should come.” So we slowly followed him down the road. < Back Magical Māpua The Press 30 Sept 2025 We’d been in the village for less than half an hour before we were propositioned. Usually, I’m a little wary of strangers inviting me to their house but the tall man in the grey hoodie insisted. “It’s only three minutes away,” he said with a straight face and slight accent. “You should come.” So we slowly followed him down the road. Not that there was anything to worry about. The inviting local was one of the Māpua’s many talented craftspeople, industrial designer Sebastian Roccatagliata. In the workshop below his house, he pointed to thin boards of rimu, matai, and rewarewa, ready to be crafted into lamps for his Studio Deco Design showroom. Sebastian, like many of Māpua’s residents, had moved here for the lifestyle and natural beauty. The name says it all: Māpua means ‘a place of abundance’ in Māori. Only 30 minutes from Nelson, the township is best known for the historic and revitalised Māpua Wharf – an eclectic mix of boutiques, restaurants, bars, galleries, and a bike hire shop. “You want a step thru? A hardtail?” Establishing that I was a novice, the staff at Kiwi Journeys carefully wheeled out my first e-bike. “Go round to the left, between the buildings, down the ramp, onto the sand, we’ll meet you there. We drive the ferry too.” The flat-bottomed Māpua Ferry is the cycle-friendly link to nearby Rabbit Island and the only ferry crossing on New Zealand’s cycle trail. It took a whole five minutes to get to the other side. “See you in a few hours” came the cheery wave and off we went, doing a majestic 20kph with the help of eco and sport modes, peddling the coast track before heading towards the beach. Beyond the protected bird nests lay total solitude, undisturbed sand as far as the eye could see. Further inland we doubled back though the pine forest, navigating pinecones and debris before taking on the Conifer Park Track. Along the way we came across other cyclists who were doing the Great Taste Trail, one of the Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand. Once back in Māpua it was time to eat, and The Jellyfish’s sun deck was calling. Located in a prime position on the wharf this well-regarded restaurant was bustling despite the chilly spring day. I rued not choosing the BBQ brisket dripping in caramelised onion that she-who-doesn’t-like-to-share ordered. Oh well, there was always Hamish the heron to watch on the pier (spoiler alert: it took me a while to figure out Hamish is not a real bird). Not far from the restaurant are the old apple coolstores, now converted into an art lover’s paradise. Where once 100,000 cases of Granny Smiths and Galas sat ready to be exported, today it is pīwakawaka sculptures of recycled spoons (Forest Fusion), hand-painted scarfs (The Mapua Collective), and mini terracotta vases (Coolstore Gallery) that take pride of place. But it was a pop of fuchsia nearby that caught my eye. The brightly painted beacon that is Kandē was a magnet to my oh-so-sweet tooth . Seated behind the smallest counter in the world was college student Aidan Porch, purveying jars of Grow Some Balls and Stop the Whining Gums . “How would I describe this shop? Small!” he laughed, going on to explain that the candy store was a family affair - built by him and his dad, with mum doing the ordering – giving him the flexibility to work when he can. Like many seaside towns, opening hours in Māpua vary by season : the Golden Bear Brewing Company was still ‘hibernating’ in early September; the ferry timetable was operating on winter hours (weekends / school holidays); and many of the pop-up shops hadn’t popped-up yet. Thankfully this wasn’t the case everywhere. “Open every day but Christmas,” shouted Tim over the Wega coffee machine at Java Hut, a little further up Aranui Road. Complete with self-identifying grumpy old men sitting out front and an overflowing tippo-potamus, it was obvious that Java Hut is a local’s local. “I love it when we get visitors, but there’s more to Māpua than just the wharf.” He wasn’t wrong. Staying in a converted warehouse apartment at Pohutukawa Farm, with its expansive views of tidal Waimea Inlet framed by the distant snowy ranges, it was easy to forget how much the wider area had to offer. In a region renowned for its wines we headed to Moutere Hills Restaurant & Cellar Door in search of lunch. Mistake #1 : not making a booking during a potentially busy period (I’m looking at you, Fathers’ Day). Mistake #2 : not giving ourselves enough time to take in the surrounds. We laser focused in on deserts. Dark Chocolate Ganache Tart? Yes please. Orange Cake, Safron Gel and Aquafaba Meringue? We’ll have that too. A trio of Feijoa Cake Limoncello, Tiramisu, and Ginger Loaf Icecream? Go on then. It’s fair to say that we didn’t have dinner. We had one last stop though: Brook Waimārama Sanctuary, a shortish drive away. The South Island’s biggest predator-free sanctuary is home to 65 tuatara and 41 kiwi pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi), as well as the critically endangered kākāriki-karaka (orange-fronted parakeet). We were warmly welcomed to the visitor centre by Chris McCormack, CEO, enthusiastic conservationist, and our tour guide for the night. Red-light head torches on, puffers zipped up, we headed through the double doors into the forest valley. A few hundred metres in Chris froze. “Hear that?” he urgently whispered, “It’s a male.” A high-pitched whistle. A pause, and then another one. “No, he’s a different male.” Then a lower call, slower, a short of trill. “Wow, she’s responding! That’s two kiwi males and a female you’ve just heard”. This was going to be hard to beat. We followed the path through the sanctuary, Chris shining an infrared light to bring the hidden glowworms alive, stopping occasionally to open a wooden ‘weta hotel’ (it’s OK, they’re in cases). This time there was a sharp “Shhh”. Leaves rustled to our right. Then suddenly, out popped a kiwi pukupuku metres from us and shot up the side of the path, it’s powerful legs too quick for us to get a photo, its soft shaggy feathers shining in the full moonlight. We were stunned. To see this taonga in its natural habitat really did feel like an honour. “That has never happened on a tour,” Chris said, when we all got our breath back. The wide smiles continued all the way back to Māpua. The next morning, still excited about our kiwi encounter, we coffee’d in Māpua one last time. As we left the wharf we passed Sebastian’s lighting showroom, his whale-shaped lights still on, grateful that this stranger had taken the time to proposition us. Original publication: The Press < Previous Next >

Pick up a copy of the latest D-Photo magazine to read the feature article about my time with the Hadzabe of Tanzania < Back First Peoples in D-Photo magazine 19 Jan 2019 Pick up a copy of the latest D-Photo magazine to read the feature article about my time with the Hadzabe of Tanzania - a tribe so old that National Geographic calls them 'the closest living relatives of the humans who first left Africa to migrate to the rest of the world'. It's a great preview to my May exhibition that'll be part of the Auckland Festival of Photography. < Previous Next >

No one knows exactly where they originally came from, not even their chief. The first indigenous inhabitants of the Onconcua region in southwestern Angola, the semi-nomadic Vatwa are one of the few tribes that imitate the dress of another, the Himba. TRIBES The Vatwa Oncocua, Angola No one knows exactly where they originally came from, not even their chief. The first indigenous inhabitants of the Onconcua region in southwestern Angola, the semi-nomadic Vatwa are one of the few tribes that imitate the dress of another, the Himba. < Previous Next >

The portrait of Kanamutico of the Vatwa tribe will be on the walls of The Glasgow Gallery of Photography in its upcoming Open exhibition, to be held in the UK from 7-31 October < Back Kanamutico goes to Scotland 25 Jun 2026 The portrait of Kanamutico of the Vatwa tribe will be on the walls of The Glasgow Gallery of Photography in its upcoming Open exhibition, to be held in the UK from 7-31 October The photograph of the boy siting inside the opening of a ndjuwo (hut) was taken in southern Angola's Oncocua region as part of a study of the semi-nomadic Vatwa tribe. The Vatwa exhibition has already shown in Melbourne, Australia with a pop-up in Vienna, Austria next. < Previous Next >

Continuing their tour of major European cities, in June the Dani of Papua will next be making their inaugural showing in Rome, at Italy's GARD Galleria Arte Roma Design. < Back I Dani vanno a Roma 24 Apr 2026 Continuing their tour of major European cities, in June the Dani of Papua will next be making their inaugural showing in Rome, at Italy's GARD Galleria Arte Roma Design. GARD, a specialist gallery known for its international collaborations will be showing a unique collection of portraits of the Dani. Artist Guy Needham will be attending in Rome on opening night, 5 June, to talk about the Dani, their culture, customs and unique attire, as well as the work he has done photographing indigenous tribes over the past ten years. < Previous Next >

TRAVEL

Melbourne's Ladder Art Space will be showing the Vatwa exhibition as part of their 2026 programme, bringing to Australia one of Angola's most intriguing tribes. < Back The Vatwa go to Melbourne 7 Oct 2025 Melbourne's Ladder Art Space will be showing the Vatwa exhibition as part of their 2026 programme, bringing to Australia one of Angola's most intriguing tribes. Regarded as the first indigenous inhabitants of the Angola's Onconcua region, no-one knows exactly where they originally came from, not even their chief. In May next year a curated selection of captivating portraits will be on show in Melbourne accompanied by texts sharing the lifestyle, history and social structures of this semi-nomadic tribe. The Vatwa are the ninth in Guy Needham's Tribal series, which to date has included indigenous peoples in Africa, Asia, the Pacific and South America. < Previous Next >

The sixth instalment of Guy Needham's tribal series opened in Auckland last night to a packed Grey gallery. < Back The Hadzabe opens in Auckland 29 May 2019 The sixth instalment of Guy Needham's tribal series opened in Auckland last night to a packed Grey gallery. You've still got time to see The Hadzabe of Tanzania, on show until June 8, and if you'd like to find out more about this fascinating tribe come along to the Q&A session this Saturday at Noon at 37 Scanlan St, Grey Lynn. < Previous Next >

I think I'm a nun-magnet. Not in a creepy sort of way, but this isn't the first time a sister has made a beeline for me. "I'm a photographer too," said Josette, seeing my cameras, before going on to share that both Pope Francis and Pope John Paul II had visited here. < Back Sieges, Saints, and Salt Pans Sunday Star-Times 20 Sept 2026 I think I'm a nun-magnet. Not in a creepy sort of way, but this isn't the first time a sister has made a beeline for me. "I'm a photographer too," said Josette, seeing my cameras, before going on to share that both Pope Francis and Pope John Paul II had visited here. ‘Here’ was the Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta' Pinu, an impressive basilica rising from the open countryside, and the most important shrine in Gozo. Gozo, located halfway between North Africa and Europe, is one of three islands that make up Malta – along with the island of Malta (confusingly) and tiny Comino. Smaller and greener than its sister island, Gozo moves at a far more laid-back pace. "Have you visited the Ċitadella yet?" asked Josette, playing both spiritual and physical tour guide. As it happened, I had, walking its honey-coloured ramparts that morning for a sweeping view over Gozo's rolling fields. The Citadel, in the heart of the capital Victoria (known as Ir-Rabat in Maltese) can be seen from nearly everywhere on the island, and I'd been driven there by the man now waiting outside for me: Ian, of 'Gozo Taxi by Ian'. A proud Gozitan, Ian had spent the morning giving me a humourous and insightful tour of the island. Picking me up from The Duke Boutique Hotel, our first stop had been the island's most impressive viewpoint, Xlendi (pron. 'Shlen-dee'). With a 17 th century tower standing sentry over an imposing coastline, the view of the limestone cliffs carved by wind was nothing short of awe-inspiring. When I said to Ian that Xlendi would be hard to beat, he just smiled. Driving to the north of the island, he parked us beside 350-year-old salt pans stretching out next to the sea. Climbing the dozen or so steps to the 'salt store', I was lucky enough to meet a fifth-generation salt harvester, who sold me a bag of crystals her family had scraped up over the summer months. With the salt safely stashed in my bag, we headed back across the island to Dwejra's Inland Sea. Connected to the Mediterranean through a tunnel in the cliffs, you can take a 15-minute boat ride into the open sea for some of the best diving around Gozo. Worth knowing: if you're by yourself, you either have to wait for others to arrive or hire an entire boat yourself (and that wait can be a long one). From there, it was on to our final destination of the day: Gozo's – and perhaps Malta's – finest beach, the crescent-shaped Ramla il-Ħamra. Literally meaning 'red-sanded beach’, Ramla is refreshingly free of crowds, and families were making the most of the gentle, warm waters as kids ran around on the rusty red sands. It was a fitting farewell to Gozo. The next morning, I took the 45-minute highspeed ferry to Malta. If Gozo's charm lay in its natural beauty, Malta's lay in something far more dramatic: a history of sieges, knights, and empires. Unfortunately for Malta, geography made it a target. For thousands of years, control of the island meant control of the Mediterranean's sea routes – a prize fought over and claimed by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, Sicilians, French, and British. But it's the Knights of the Order of St John whose presence still defines the island today. Refugees from the Crusades, the knights had been chased from Jerusalem to Rhodes before finally settling in Malta. It was here, in 1565, that they won their greatest victory: 500 knights and 8,000 Maltese held out against 30,000 Ottomans in the Great Siege of Malta. Leading the defence was 70-year-old Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette, after whom the capital, Valletta, is named. As an avid history buff, there was one place in Valletta on my ‘must see’ list: the Grand Master's Palace. Once the official residence of the Knights' Grand Masters, it now houses the Office of the President of Malta, along with an impressive medieval armoury. Walking between rows and rows of elaborate armour, mounted swords, and flintlock muskets, I doubt I closed my mouth once – five centuries of warfare lined the walls on either side. Keen to learn about one more siege I headed to The Malta Experience, an audio-visual history of the country. During World War II, Malta endured more bombing than London did in the Blitz, as Germany and Italy tried to force it into submission. Under siege for two and a half years, the island held out until convoys broke through with vital supplies – earning it the George Cross, Britain's highest civilian honour for bravery, which still flies in the corner of the flag today. Walking the streets back to my hotel, I looked up at the colourful gallariji, the enclosed wooden balconies that I'd first noticed on Gozo. I raised my camera to take a photo, then paused, thinking of Josette – wondering what the nun would be photographing next. Originally published in the Suday Star-Times and The Post < Previous Next >

This walking dichotomy of a young Huli boy - is he turning his back on a traditional way of life, or walking towards his future - has been selected by Rotterdam's Galerie Sehnsucht as part of its Wanderlust exhibition. < Back Huli Boy in Dutch exhibition 5 Jun 2018 This walking dichotomy of a young Huli boy - is he turning his back on a traditional way of life, or walking towards his future - has been selected by Rotterdam's Galerie Sehnsucht as part of its Wanderlust exhibition. The image, taken in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, will be on show in The Netherlands from June 20 through to August 5. < Previous Next >

TRAVEL Torajaland Sulawesi, Indonesia For the Toraja of southern Sulawesi, death is very much a part of life and their elaborate funeral rites are renowned throughout Indonesia. Previous Next