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Vasillia gently touched my arm and leant in. “You are an Orthodox at heart,” she whispered, her eyes lighting up. “Yes, yes, I can see it inside you!” For the first time in my life I had to disappoint a nun. < Back Disappointing a Nun New Zealand Herald 21 Aug 2019 Vasillia gently touched my arm and leant in. “You are an Orthodox at heart,” she whispered, her eyes lighting up. “Yes, yes, I can see it inside you!” For the first time in my life I had to disappoint a nun. Upon learning of my Protestant upbringing Vasillia feigned disappointment. “Ahh, we all have our crosses to bear!” she laughed, her round face beaming out of her habit. We were standing in the nave of the Monastery of Agios Stefanos, gazing up at a fresco of the Second Coming of Christ. Vasillia was handing out candles. “I have been living here now for 15 years - there are 32 of us. Meteora is my home,” she said proudly. Meteora, a collection of ancient monasteries perched atop towering pinnacles of rock, is one of the holiest sites in Greece. Derived from the Greek meaning “suspended in the air” it literally lives up to its name. We were half a kilometre up in the sky. The history of Meteora dates back thousands of years, with Homer’s Iliad talking of six men from the area who fought alongside Achilles. More ‘recently’ in the 11th century, it became a refuge for monks fleeing inland from pirates. The monks’ need for sanctuary combined with their quest for austerity made Meteora the perfect place to escape to. Setting up solitary cells in the caves dotted across the cliff faces, they established the first hermitages still visible today. There is even a ‘monk jail’ where those who had sinned would be banished to. “Ahh, we all have our crosses to bear!” she laughed, her round face beaming out of her habit. By the 14th century, monks who had formed a community attempted to climb higher, using stakes and ropes to work their way up the rock pillars. When they finally made their way to the top they built their most important structure first – a pulley. It took hundreds of years to lift up provisions and materials to create what is now an UNESCO World Heritage-listed site. Until the 1920s the only way to reach the peaks was by a network of rope ladders, hauled baskets and nets. Local legend has it that a curious visitor asked a monk how often the ropes got replaced. His reply? “When the Lord lets them break.” Once home to 24 monasteries, there are now only six remaining including two run by nuns like Vasillia, who was now walking me to the edge of a precarious garden. “See there?” she nodded towards the town of Kalambaka far below. “The whole town and this monastery were destroyed by the Nazis. Greece was the first to resist. We had to rebuild our spiritual home.” It was a sobering thought. Even from above the sheer rock formations were impressive as the winter mist rolled in. Unsurprisingly a favourite for climbers, it was easy to see how the other-worldly landscape was chosen to feature on Game of Throne s. Each pillar topped with a monastery looked like a giant finger pointing to Heaven. We stepped back towards the katholikon , Agios Stefanos’ main church around which the convent is based. Inside, the alter faced east to meet the rising sun. Vasillia restocked the candles. “We do what those before us have done. We get up early. We prey. We eat. We do our duties.” The life of a nun has not changed much, Vasilla added with a smile in her voice. As I was leaving she reached out. Still not discouraged by my lack of piety, she placed a small green crucifix in my palm. “You never know when your calling will be.” And for the first time in my life, a nun winked at me. Details Getting there: Fly to Athens via London on Air New Zealand / Aegean, train to Kalambaka Tours: www.visitmeteora.com Activities: Pilgrimage, visiting monasteries, hiking, rock climbing Visa: No visa is required for New Zealand nationals for stays up to 90 days Travel tip: Splash out the extra euros on a first class return train ticke Original publication: New Zealand Herald < Previous Next >

The portrait of Kanamutico of the Vatwa tribe will be on the walls of The Glasgow Gallery of Photography in its upcoming Open exhibition, to be held in the UK from 7-31 October < Back Kanamutico goes to Scotland 25 Jun 2026 The portrait of Kanamutico of the Vatwa tribe will be on the walls of The Glasgow Gallery of Photography in its upcoming Open exhibition, to be held in the UK from 7-31 October The photograph of the boy siting inside the opening of a ndjuwo (hut) was taken in southern Angola's Oncocua region as part of a study of the semi-nomadic Vatwa tribe. The Vatwa exhibition has already shown in Melbourne, Australia with a pop-up in Vienna, Austria next. < Previous Next >

Published tear sheets of Guy Needham images and articles. TEAR SHEETS see exhibitions in situ > see exhibitions in situ >

See the exhibition about one of the world's most remote tribes, the Dani of Papua "One of Papua’s 150 tribes, the Dani live in the isolated Baliem valley where the smell of dampness hangs in the air, pushed down by the cigarette smoke and low cloud.” The Dani of Papua In the distant land of Papua, Indonesia, live the Dani tribe. Although thousands of years old, they were unknown to the rest of the world until 1938. Today they still live a simple life and, while not isolated from the march of modernity, their traditions and values have endured. Dani men are renowned for their formidable appearance – including wearing the horim or penis gourd. While most of the younger members of the tribe wear western clothes today, the elders still adhere to the old ways and the tribe embraces traditional dress when it comes to ceremony. See the exhibition Porto 12 - 26 June 2026 Address MIRA FORUM 68 Padre António Vieira Street Porto, Portugal Contact (+351) 929 145 191 (+351) 929 113 431 Opening Hours Wednesday to Saturday 15:00 – 19:00 miraforum@miragalerias.net guy@guyneedham.com ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER Guy Needham’s inquisitive worldview was shaped by growing up in rural New Zealand in the 1970s. Today he is noted for his international work with indigenous tribes, primarily drawing on themes of identity and place within cultural narratives. His work is a hybrid of photographic genres, sitting somewhere between documentary and portraiture. The simplicity of his pared-down style has been described as having both a quiet intensity and a subtle momentum. His images have been exhibited in New York, London, Paris, Berlin, Barcelona, Tokyo, and Athens, and been seen on the pages of National Geographic Traveler, CNN.com, Lonely Planet, SUITCASE Magazine, International Traveler, Portrait Magazine and AFAR.

“The Pope, The Pope!” A construction worker was vigourously waving his arms and yelling at me. “The Pope, no entrada!” Seeing my obvious confusion, he came running over and introduced himself by way of tattooed name on his forearm. Pito explained that the attraction I had come to see, was closed, in preparation for a visit from the Pontiff. < Back Asia's overlooked Gem Copy Sunday Star-Times 2 Aug 2024 “The Pope, The Pope!” A construction worker was vigourously waving his arms and yelling at me. “The Pope, no entrada!” Seeing my obvious confusion, he came running over and introduced himself by way of tattooed name on his forearm. Pito explained that the attraction I had come to see, was closed, in preparation for a visit from the Pontiff. Pito and I were on the road below Cristo Rei of Dili, a magnificent statue of Christ with welcoming arms, standing atop a globe. Reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer, the statue was built by the Indonesian Government during its occupation. “It’s OK,” Pito assured me, “I can tell you history.” The sun bounced off his dusty hard hat. The history of Timor-Leste (pron. less-tay) is a long and bloody one. After 400 years as a Portuguese colony, a coup in Lisbon encouraged the East Timorese to declare independence in 1975. In the lead-up there were border incursions by Indonesian militia, a prequel to a full-scale invasion. The film Balibo, about the five Australian journalists killed during those incursions and journalist Roger East who was executed, is an excellent, if gut-wrenching, watch. During the 24 years of Indonesian rule more than 200,000 Timorese lost their lives. Many Kiwis will remember that New Zealand was part of the UN peacekeeping force in East Timor after a referendum on independence in 1999. Private Leonard Manning of the New Zealand Army was one of those who paid the ultimate sacrifice, killed in action while defending the freedom of the East Timorese. While the suffering of the past is never far from the country’s collective memory, these days Timor-Leste is on friendly terms with its neighbours, is eager to prosper, and keen to show the world what it has to offer. A country of boundless natural beauty, it’s fair to say that intrepid travellers will get more out of it than someone who loves their creature comforts. Don’t get me wrong, there are 4-star hotels in Dili and Timor-Leste is gearing up for more tourism. But part of the charm is the unique opportunity to experience a country that hasn’t yet been commercialised. Even the arrival process is uncomplicated: you line up for a visa (US$30 cash only), you get your stamp, you walk around the corner, you pick up your bag, you buy a local SIM card (very important), and the next thing you know you’re in Dili. Getting around the capital is best done by microlet – colourful, numbered minibuses that follow set routes. They’re easy to hail down, and when you’re ready to get off you tap the metal handrail with a coin. It costs 25 centavos (about 40c) no matter how far you go. Getting around the rest of the country though, that’s another story, and usually requires your own set of wheels. I was lucky enough to have two Timorese, Guido and Cesar, take me to the easternmost point, Tutuala Beach. It really is off the beaten track. We were bouncing around so much on the deconstructed roads that my Apple Watch asked If I’d like to “Record indoor walk”. Our beachfront accommodation was the community-run Valu Sere, made up of simple rooms with thatched roofs, mosquito nets, and a light. We ate in the open-air dining room metres from the sea enjoying the fish Guido had picked out for dinner. The next morning, we hired a boat to take the 10-minute journey across to instagrammable Jaco Island. Part of the protected Nino Konis Santana National Park, the sand is so white, the ocean ridiculously clear. This is about as deserted a tropical island as you can get. Back in Baucau, the country’s second city, we stocked up on water to explore the nearby countryside in 30-degree heat. Our first stop was Gua Tujuh (the seven caves) where the Japanese fought from in World War II, and the Timorese resistance fought from during the Indonesian occupation. The mountainous landscape is dotted with numerous scenic points, but none as revered as Mount Ariana. At the top of some steep, concrete steps the wind buffeted us as we took in the 360-degree views and looked up to the statue of Maria Auxiliadora. Part of joy of travelling through Timor-Leste is sampling the local cuisine. On the way back to Dili we stopped at a beachside restaurant for some skewered grilled fish, unwrapped our katupa (rice wrapped up in coconut leaf parcels) and dug in with forks and fingers. The local food is very cheap, despite the official currency being US dollars. Timor-Leste now only accepts US $5 denominations upward and uses local Centavos for anything below that. Don’t worry though, it’s all interchangeable. Just make sure you have enough cash before you leave the cities. Select ATMs accept Visa – although they had run out of money after the weekend. Off the coast, Atauro Island looms large. A divers’ and snorkelers’ paradise, travel agents can not only hook you up with dive masters but also accommodation ranging from eco resorts to camping. Even if you’re not an avid diver, the water is so clear that a snorkel and mask is all you’ll need. Back in Dili the cacophony of horns continued as pedestrians skirted around the uncovered manholes. A Ranger full of nuns zoomed past, habits flapping out the open windows. In a country that’s 95% Catholic it’s no surprise that Pope Francis is visiting, the first Pope to do so since the late 1980s. Papa Francisco will get a very Timorese welcome, full of warmth and respect and love. He will get to climb the steps to Cristo Rei and look out at Asia’s newest county. And I’m sure Pito will be there, calling out to him. Details Flights: From Darwin or Bali daily Tourism Timor-Leste: https://visiteasttimor.com/timor/ Original publication: Sunday Star-Times < Previous Next >

"The leader reaches in between the freshly cut, drooping skin and through to the open organ cavity. Twisting his hand with a precision that only comes with age, he pulls out the bloody liver." < Back The Last Great Hunter-Gatherers 22 Dec 2023 "The leader reaches in between the freshly cut, drooping skin and through to the open organ cavity. Twisting his hand with a precision that only comes with age, he pulls out the bloody liver." The 23rd issue of The Travel Almanac, themed “Origins”, is packed with inspiring journeys and conversations, including my article on dinner with The Hadzabe. Part of a stunning 270-page hardcover, you can order your copy from The Travel Almanac here . < Previous Next >

The runway was approaching and we still didn’t have clearance. We’d reduced speed but the control tower was looming closer. Suddenly we got the green light. “There it is,” pointed Geoff, “Up in the tower”. Sure enough, a green light beamed back at us, permission to continue on the railway that cuts through Gisborne’s airport. < Back Hidden Gisborne New Zealand Herald 9 Aug 2023 The runway was approaching and we still didn’t have clearance. We’d reduced speed but the control tower was looming closer. Suddenly we got the green light. “There it is,” pointed Geoff, “Up in the tower”. Sure enough, a green light beamed back at us, permission to continue on the railway that cuts through Gisborne’s airport. Geoff was a guard aboard Wa165, the only remaining Wa class steam locomotive in the world. As President of the Gisborne City Vintage Railway, over the clack clacks he shared the history of an engine that first ran when Queen Victoria reigned. After years of neglect, it was lovingly restored by rail enthusiasts and now plies its route as one of Gisborne’s hidden treasures. “You’ll want to see this,” Geoff nodded ahead. We started to slow as the Waipaoa River Bridge came into view. Passing over the longest rail bridge in the North Island made for a vintage scene before picking up steam through the fields to Muriwai. Once the train had safely stopped it was the kids’ time – selfies lying in front of the cowcatcher and oohs and ahs as they clambered into the cab under the watchful eye of the driver. John the fireman (in a steam train sense) took me through the stats: half a tonne of coal, 4,000 litres of water, and a whole lot of levers to get the three carriages here and back. As a trainee driver, it was his job to manage the ‘run around’ – when the engine is shifted to the ‘rear’ of the train in order to lead the way home backwards. As we rumbled back to the city and scenic views gave way to urban landscape, the piercing whistle reminded cars that a 200-tonne train was headed their way. At journey’s end Wa165 braked to a stop and 150 beaming faces disembarked. Quite conveniently the railway depot is just a five-minute walk from New Zealand’s oldest independent brewery. The home of Gisborne Gold, Sunshine Brewing is a boutique brewery, pizzeria and off-licence all wrapped into one. Kahu was there to greet me, passionately explaining what it takes to create such locally-inspired drops as Life’s a Peach, Pipeline Pilsner and Stockies, before generously pouring me a tasting flight from a selection of their 20 tap beers. Spilling out onto the patio was a melting pot of jandals and John Bulls, mullets and bangs. Spilling out onto the patio was a melting pot of jandals and John Bulls, mullets and bangs. Piping hot pizzas landed with ice-cold pints as beer-matching is an art here: Rip Tide pizza accompanied by Mahia Pale Ale, slices of Shore Break with the award-winning No Access East Coast hazy IPA. As I left it was obvious that the locals appreciate it too as ‘double dozens’ were carried off to be sipped elsewhere. Tūranganui-a-Kiwa has always had an active arts scene so it was exciting to come across Toi Ake. Located in the Ballance Street Village, its teardrop banner gave little away. Randomly popping in I was welcomed by co-founder Henare Brooking (Ngati Porou, Rongowhakaata), himself a painter, tā moko, pounamu and paraoa (whalebone) artist. “We wanted to create a hub for local artists to work from, a place where they could grow their art”. Now one of the country’s leading Māori art studios, the gallery features work from across the motu. Paintings and prints cover the walls. Carvings look down and sculptures stand proud. While the front of Toi Ake is a gallery, it was out back where the action was taking place. One of the five full-time tā moko artists was carefully applying fresh ink to a client’s ankle; the concentration was evident. On the other side of town, there was a different sort of concentration: wild stingrays. 24 years ago diver and underwater cameraman Dean Savage was befriended by a curious stingray, planting the seed for what is now Dive Tatapouri’s Ecology Reef tour. Today these kaitiaki of the ocean, sacred to the area, feel the vibrations of people from all over the world who have come to interact with them in their natural environment. Thorough safety briefing done (“avoid the barbs”), waders on and pole in hand, we entered the reef at low tide. My partner's trepidation quickly evaporated as Stevie Ray glided up beside her. Graceful, serene, Stevie Ray investigated the line of legs before being joined by eagle rays Aroha and Rachael. Our guide Matt handed out bait. “When you go to feed them take your hand right to the bottom, all the way down – their mouths are under their body.” Aroha came up to my partner’s hand and sucked the food in like a soft vacuum, despite pushy kahawai trying to get in on the action. Matt was encouraging: “Go ahead, gently stroke them if you like.” I nodded affirmatively as if I was a marine biologist. A hand went into the water and the report came back: slimy but cool. Soon it was our turn for lunch and the city’s inner harbour beckoned. Years ago, when I was wearing Nomads at Gisborne Boys’ High, the Kaiti Freezing Works was a major employer in Tairāwhiti. Today the only remaining building is a gable-roofed structure that houses one of Gisborne’s best eateries, The Works. With an industrial-meets-casual vibe that wouldn’t be out of place on Ponsonby Road, the brick restaurant is less ‘hidden’ and more ‘destination’. Like many a hospitality venue over the summer post-COVID, it has been “smashed as”, but you wouldn’t know it judging by what was coming out of the kitchen. Cradled in a halved brioche was my Pork Belly Karaage, a perfectly coated tonkatsu topped with honey soy sauce… which instantly got ‘shared’ with uninvited forks. The Orecchiette Pasta was nearly enough for two: prawns sitting atop lemon pangrattato and thinly sliced zucchini. There was no need for dessert, tempting as it looked. It’s a little-known fact that the National Arboretum of New Zealand is… in Gisborne. To be accurate, the arboreal ark that is Eastwoodhill is a 30min drive away through the Ngatapa valley. Upon arriving I instantly regretted not putting more time aside to see the largest collection of northern hemisphere trees in this part of the world. Autumn sees the 100-year-old gardens come alive, a deciduous cloak of orange fluttering upon a bed of needles and cones. Another little-known fact: it's not only the Giant Panda and Bizarre-nosed Chameleon that make the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species; Eastwoodhill helps protect over 150 threatened or endangered trees on the list. We took the Yellow Walk to see them, zig-zagging through the woodlands before the scent of eucalyptus led us to The Cathedral. Originally an outline of Westminster Abbey planted in Lawson cypress, the enchanting smell comes from the tallest tree in the arboretum. There is something soul-fulfilling in walking amongst giants and my partner couldn’t help but say hello to the trees in their native language: “Konnichi wa” “Ni hao” “Hola” ”Bonjour”. The arboretum isn’t all exotics though; there are plenty of natives for the kids to learn about if you can tear them away from the carved lion. The fading sunlight was our cue to head down the road to our final destination, Gisborne Astro Tours. Pulling up outside a paddock and a large portacabin shed, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Our host, John Drummond (MSc Astronomy, Fellow of the Royal Astronomical Society of New Zealand) strolled out to meet us, extending his hand like we were old friends and inviting us inside. As we took a seat John explained how we were in a perfect position: zero light pollution and the best view of the universe. As he started his interactive 30-minute presentation I realised that this astro-scientist was the epitome of Gizzy: friendly, knowledgeable, enthusiastic and authentic. Nebulae, clusters, supernovae, constellations - it was (excuse the pun) all so clear now. John put up with my inane questions (“Why did Pluto get demoted?”) with the skill of a science teacher and the patience of a saint. Then it was time to see the real thing. Leading us out past wool-shedding Wiltshire sheep, John disappeared through a low door before popping up to roll back the roof of his custom-built observatory, revealing two large Newtonian Reflector telescopes. This is where stargazing guests spend most of their time, marvelling at the celestial worlds before them until reluctantly having to share the eyepiece. As we were leaving John casually mentioned Gisborne Astro Tours’ Introductory Course to Astronomy: six lectures over six weeks focusing on how to use the telescope, astrophotography and solar system viewings. Humble as he was, I think it’s one part of the Gisborne experience that doesn’t deserve to be hidden. Details Getting there: Air New Zealand flies from Auckland and Wellington on a daily basis to Gisborne Gisborne City Vintage Railway: www.gcvr.org.nz Sunshine Brewing: www.sunshinebrewing.co.nz Toi Ake gallery: www.toiake.art The Works: www.theworksgisborne.co.nz Reef Ecology Stingray tour: www.divetatapouri.com Eastwoodhill Arboretum: www.eastwoodhill.org.nz Gisborne Astro Tours: www.gisborneastrotours.com Original publication: New Zealand Herald < Previous Next >

The Royal Photographic Society, one of the world's premium photography institutions, is featuring a gallery of Shades of Otara on their website. < Back Royal Photographic Society meets Otara 13 Sept 2017 The Royal Photographic Society, one of the world's premium photography institutions, is featuring a gallery of Shades of Otara on their website. The exhibition was included in the Society's Documentary magazine, The Decisive Moment. < Previous Next >

Guy Needham is an international photographer noted for his work with indigenous tribes, who primarily draws on themes of culture, identity and place. Guy Needham Guy Needham Guy Needham Guy Needham

The Angolan south western tribe will be making an appearance in Austria at an upcoming pop-up exhibition < Back The Vatwa pop up in Vienna 28 Mar 2026 The Angolan south western tribe will be making an appearance in Austria at an upcoming pop-up exhibition Fresh off exhibitions in Rome and Melbourne, the Vatwa of Angola will be appearing in Galerie Frank Wien from 29th August. A curated selection of Vatwa portraits taken in 2025 will be on show, focusing on the Oncocoa region’s earliest inhabitants, tracing identity, tradition, and resilience through a series of portraits - offering a quiet counterpoint to the pace and priorities of contemporary life. < Previous Next >

Recent solo and group exhibitions that Guy Needham's work has featured in around the world. EXHIBITIONS SOLO 2026 The Dani of Papua, MIRA Forum Porto, Portugal 2026 The Dani of Papua , Galleria Arte Roma Design Rome, Italy 2026 The Vatwa of Angola, Ladder Art Space Melbourne, Australia 2025 The Dani of Papua, Associação de Psicanálise Relacional Lisbon, Portugal 2023 The Dani of Papua, FotoNostrum House of Photography Barcelona, Spain 2023 The Dani of Papua, The Grey Place Auckland, New Zealand 2021 The Hadzabe of Tanzania, Ladder Art Space Melbourne, Australia 2020 The Samburu of Kenya, Studio 541 Auckland, New Zealand 2019 Six Tribes, Blank Wall Gallery Athens, Greece 2019 Six Tribes, L’Atelier de Pilar Güell Barcelona, Spain 2019 The Hadzabe of Tanzania,Grey Gallery Auckland, New Zealand 2018 The Mentawai of Indonesia, ArtHouse Sydney, Australia 2017 The Mentawai of Indonesia, Studio 541 Auckland, New Zealand 2016 The Hamar of Ethiopia, ThisThat Gallery Auckland, New Zealand 2015 Shades of Otara, Studio One Auckland, New Zealand 2014 The Huli of Papua New Guinea, Allpress Studio Auckland, New Zealand 2014 Colour Nature, Rendezvous Auckland, New Zealand 2013 People of The Balkans, The Photographers' Gallery Napier, New Zealand GROUP 2026 Open, Glasgow Gallery of Photography, UK 2026 Pop-up collective, Galerie Frank Wien, Austria 2025 Winter Solstice, Griffin Museum of Photography Boston, USA 2025 Travel, Blank Wall Gallery Athens, Greece 2024 Indian Photo Festival, State Gallery of Art Hyderabad, India 2023 Portraits, Blank Wall Gallery Athens, Greece 2023 Budapest Inter national Foto Awards, Budapest, Hungary 2022 Prix de la Photographie de Paris, Espace Beaurepaire Paris, France 2022 Winter Solstice, Griffin Museum of Photography Boston, USA 2022 Vienna International Photo Awards exhibition, Austria 2022 Portraits, Glasgow Gallery of Photography, UK 2022 Still Life, Blank Wall Gallery Athens, Greece 2022 The Portrait, Praxis Gallery Minneapolis, USA 2022 Shoot The Face, State Art Gallery Hyderabad, India 2022 Photographers for Ukraine, Incubator Lisbon, Portugal 2022 International Street Photography, Glasgow Gallery of Photography, UK 2021 6th Biennial of Fine Art & Documentary, FotoNostrum Barcelona, Spain 2021 International Photography Awards, Shatto Gallery Los Angeles, USA 2021 Budapest International Photo Awards, Budapest, Hungary 2021 Tales of the Unwritten, Stelio Crise State Library Trieste, Italy 2021 International Juried Exhibition, Centre for Photographic Art, Carmel California, USA 2021 After Dark, Praxis Gallery Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA 2020 Winter Solstice, Griffin Museum of Photography Boston, USA 2020 GZ-Basel, Virtual exhibition, Basel, Switzerland 2020 First Place, Portraits, Florida Museum of Photographic Arts Tampa, USA 2020 The Portrait, Praxis Gallery Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA 2020 The Golden Hour, Auburn Art Gallery Los Angeles, USA 2019 Portraits, Glasgow Gallery of Photography, Scotland, UK 2019 Monochrome, PH21 Gallery Budapest, Hungary 2019 Members Show, Florida Museum of Photographic Arts Tampa, USA 2019 Postcards, Jarvis Dooney Gallery Berlin, Germany 2019 Jurors' Exhibition, Chania International Photo Festival, Greece 2019 Faces of the World, Ferencvárosi Művelődési Központ Budapest, Hungary 2019 SE Members Show, SE Center of Photography, South Carolina, USA 2018 Wanderlust, Galerie Sehnsucht Rotterdam, The Netherlands 2018 London Photo Festival, The Crypt London, UK 2018 LCAP Annual Exhibition, LA Centre of Photography, USA 2018 Atlas of Humanity, Photokina Fair Cologne, Germany 2018 Portraits, Blank Wall Gallery Athens, Greece 2018 Travel, PhotoPlace Gallery Middlebury Vermont, USA 2017 London Photo Festival, The Crypt London, UK 2017 Show Your World, Gallery MC New York, USA 2016 Portrait Salon, Reminders Photography Stronghold Gallery Tokyo, Japan 2015 MIFA Foto Awards, Na Kashirke Gallery Moscow, Russia 2015 UK Portrait Salon, The Embassy Tea Gallery London, UK 2013 The Story of The Creative, See Exhibition Space New York, USA see exhibitions in situ > see tear sheets > see About >

I think I'm a nun-magnet. Not in a creepy sort of way, but this isn't the first time a sister has made a beeline for me. "I'm a photographer too," said Josette, seeing my cameras, before going on to share that both Pope Francis and Pope John Paul II had visited here. < Back Sieges, Saints, and Salt Pans Sunday Star-Times 21 Jun 2026 I think I'm a nun-magnet. Not in a creepy sort of way, but this isn't the first time a sister has made a beeline for me. "I'm a photographer too," said Josette, seeing my cameras, before going on to share that both Pope Francis and Pope John Paul II had visited here. ‘Here’ was the Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta' Pinu, an impressive basilica rising from the open countryside, and the most important shrine in Gozo. Gozo, located halfway between North Africa and Europe, is one of three islands that make up Malta – along with the island of Malta (confusingly) and tiny Comino. Smaller and greener than its sister island, Gozo moves at a far more laid-back pace. "Have you visited the Ċitadella yet?" asked Josette, playing both spiritual and physical tour guide. As it happened, I had, walking its honey-coloured ramparts that morning for a sweeping view over Gozo's rolling fields. The Citadel, in the heart of the capital Victoria (known as Ir-Rabat in Maltese) can be seen from nearly everywhere on the island, and I'd been driven there by the man now waiting outside for me: Ian, of 'Gozo Taxi by Ian'. A proud Gozitan, Ian had spent the morning giving me a humourous and insightful tour of the island. Picking me up from The Duke Boutique Hotel, our first stop had been the island's most impressive viewpoint, Xlendi (pron. 'Shlen-dee'). With a 17 th century tower standing sentry over an imposing coastline, the view of the limestone cliffs carved by wind was nothing short of awe-inspiring. When I said to Ian that Xlendi would be hard to beat, he just smiled. Driving to the north of the island, he parked us beside 350-year-old salt pans stretching out next to the sea. Climbing the dozen or so steps to the 'salt store', I was lucky enough to meet a fifth-generation salt harvester, who sold me a bag of crystals her family had scraped up over the summer months. With the salt safely stashed in my bag, we headed back across the island to Dwejra's Inland Sea. Connected to the Mediterranean through a tunnel in the cliffs, you can take a 15-minute boat ride into the open sea for some of the best diving around Gozo. Worth knowing: if you're by yourself, you either have to wait for others to arrive or hire an entire boat yourself (and that wait can be a long one). From there, it was on to our final destination of the day: Gozo's – and perhaps Malta's – finest beach, the crescent-shaped Ramla il-Ħamra. Literally meaning 'red-sanded beach’, Ramla is refreshingly free of crowds, and families were making the most of the gentle, warm waters as kids ran around on the rusty red sands. It was a fitting farewell to Gozo. The next morning, I took the 45-minute highspeed ferry to Malta. If Gozo's charm lay in its natural beauty, Malta's lay in something far more dramatic: a history of sieges, knights, and empires. Unfortunately for Malta, geography made it a target. For thousands of years, control of the island meant control of the Mediterranean's sea routes – a prize fought over and claimed by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, Sicilians, French, and British. But it's the Knights of the Order of St John whose presence still defines the island today. Refugees from the Crusades, the knights had been chased from Jerusalem to Rhodes before finally settling in Malta. It was here, in 1565, that they won their greatest victory: 500 knights and 8,000 Maltese held out against 30,000 Ottomans in the Great Siege of Malta. Leading the defence was 70-year-old Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette, after whom the capital, Valletta, is named. As an avid history buff, there was one place in Valletta on my ‘must see’ list: the Grand Master's Palace. Once the official residence of the Knights' Grand Masters, it now houses the Office of the President of Malta, along with an impressive medieval armoury. Walking between rows and rows of elaborate armour, mounted swords, and flintlock muskets, I doubt I closed my mouth once – five centuries of warfare lined the walls on either side. Keen to learn about one more siege I headed to The Malta Experience, an audio-visual history of the country. During World War II, Malta endured more bombing than London did in the Blitz, as Germany and Italy tried to force it into submission. Under siege for two and a half years, the island held out until convoys broke through with vital supplies – earning it the George Cross, Britain's highest civilian honour for bravery, which still flies in the corner of the flag today. Walking the streets back to my hotel, I looked up at the colourful gallariji, the enclosed wooden balconies that I'd first noticed on Gozo. I raised my camera to take a photo, then paused, thinking of Josette – wondering what the nun would be photographing next. Originally published in Stuff < Previous Next >