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< Back LA meets Siberut 27 Jun 2018 Aman Ipai, one of the feature images of Guy Needham's The Mentawai of Indonesia series, has been selected by the Los Angeles Centre of Photography for a group exhibition. The photograph, taken as he stood in the doorway of his uma on the island of Siberut, will be available for Angelenos to see in person from July 19th - September 7th. < Previous Next >

We both looked up. It was a strange sound, obviously unfamiliar to my host. “When was the last time it rained here?” I asked. A pause. “Um… this is the first time this year. Might settle the dust though,” said Nick laconically. Perhaps a good omen to mark the centenary of what some would say is Australia’s strangest town. < Back The Strangest Town in Australia Sunday Star-Times 26 Apr 2015 We both looked up. It was a strange sound, obviously unfamiliar to my host. “When was the last time it rained here?” I asked. A pause. “Um… this is the first time this year. Might settle the dust though,” said Nick laconically. Perhaps a good omen to mark the centenary of what some would say is Australia’s strangest town. I was in Coober Pedy, located in the desert of the South Australian outback, a red dirt town under big blue skies. It’s a town that was founded 100 years ago on opal mining, a town where 50% of the population live underground, and a town that hadn’t seen rain for a while. As the showers gently eased Nick, the owner of The Lookout Cave Underground Hotel, commended me for visiting during the ‘colder’ months (it was 31° outside). In January it had been an unbearable 43°. The locals avoid the worst of it by living in ‘dugout’ homes excavated out of sandstone hills, giving them a constant 22° and respite from the harsh desert heat and dust. Unlike ‘mole holes’ these homes – like my underground hotel room – are generally at ground level, super quiet and thankfully not claustrophobic. When the rain stopped Nick pointed out the air vents that dotted the landscape, rising like metallic mushrooms giving air to the dugouts below. Google Maps had already shown me that Coober Pedy was going to be different: the reddy-brown landscape, few structures, fewer roads and lots of dirt. But what the town lacks in looks it makes up for in superlatives: it is, after all, the Opal Capital of the World, down the road is the Largest Cattle Station in the World, cutting through it is the Longest Man-made Structure in the World, there’s the Driest Golf Course in the World and of course, the Largest Underground Hotel in the World (capitals intended). I think it also has the most flies in the world. I’d timed my visit with the Coober Pedy Opal Festival, which this year was celebrating 100 years since fourteen-year-old Willie Hutchison found the first opal there. The festival kicked off with the annual Street Parade, hosted by jovial MCs keeping the crowd entertained under the blazing mid morning sun. Slowly the flotilla came into view, heavy mining trucks leading the way followed by local businesses, AFL fans and the obligatory Mines Rescue vehicles. In a town of only 3500 if you weren’t in the parade you were cheering it on from the sidelines. “Where you from eh fella?” asked the aboriginal man next to me, from under his Akubra hat. I told him and then David Mindi Crombie told me his life story. Born inside an open-cut opal pit with his twin brother. Famous for writing songs about Coober Pedy. Performed at the Sydney Opera House on a national tour. Named Coober Pedy Citizen of the Year (1992). A Justice of the Peace. Singing tonight at the pub up the road. I’d picked a good person to sit next to. Nick commended me for visiting during the ‘colder’ months (it was 31° outside). The Opal Festival also coincided with Easter so there was no better time to visit one of the town’s underground churches. Father Brian Mathews welcomed me at the door of Saint Peter’s and Paul’s and patiently took me through its history. “The parish is rather large I guess,” he said, standing in front of a wall map. “And we don’t always have a church everywhere. Last week I had mass in the dining room of a pub.” He drew his finger across the boundaries. It went up to Uluru, touched Western Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland and New South Wales. This priest was responsible for a parish area bigger than Texas. Across from the church was one of the town’s two dozen opal jewellery stores, which makes sense when you consider that 85% of Australia’s opals come from Coober Pedy. “They’re all individual, that’s what makes each one so special,” said George of Opalios, peering up with his jewellery magnifiers still on while polishing a stone. “It doesn’t matter what type of opal you like - cut, rough, milky, black, pinfire – it’s bound to be different to what anyone else has.” He pulled out a solid opal set in 18k gold. Price? A steal at $12,500. The dirty end of the business was found at Tom’s Working Opal Mine. After the briefing and donning a hard hat, I wound my way down 12 metres underground. Blower pipes, Caldwell shafts, pillar bashing, explosive setting, sump tunnels - there’s a lot to this opal mining gig. Which explains the numerous abandoned drill holes in the area (“Beware deep shafts” “Don’t walk backwards” the signs warn). Even the town’s name comes from the Aboriginal kupa-piti meaning ‘white man in a hole’. The landscapes weren’t just a potholed mess though; this was the scenery that had starred in Priscilla: Queen of the Desert and Max Mad: Beyond Thunderdome so I arranged to explore more. “Today we’re gonna go off road for about 600k’s,” said Rowie as I put my seatbelt on. Peter Rowe isn’t your typical tour guide. He’s an official Australia Post contractor and I was joining him on ‘mail run’ from Coober Pedy to William Creek to Oodnadatta. The 12-hour drive would take us across the Great Artesian Basin to the edge of the Victorian Desert. First stop was Anna Creek Station, the largest cattle ranch on the planet at a whopping 24,000km2 – that’s 6,000,000 acres. To give you a sense of scale, the distance from the property boundary to the unassuming homestead is further then the distance from Auckland to Hamilton. No one was home but Peter dropped off the mail, disturbing hundreds of screeching Corella birds all wanting to make their presence known. To get to Anna Creek we had to pass the Dog Fence, designed to keep dingoes away from livestock. The fence is twice as long as The Great Wall of China; 5600kms of protective barbed wire and posts weaving across three Australian states. William Creek (pop. 6) is a town so small that it’s entirely surrounded by Anna Creek Station. One thing it does have though – aside from a pub – is an outdoor ‘rocket museum’. I had to squint to read it but that’s what it said: the metal carcass in front of me was part of a rocket used to launch a British satellite from the nearby Woomera Rocket Range. Impressed, I went back inside for some Kangaroo Yiros and a Hahn Super Dry. The unsealed road that runs from William Creek to Oodnadatta is known as the Oodnadatta Track. Partially built on the old Ghan railway line the track is at times bone jarring, very geologically diverse and a little surprising. In the distance a dingo stared at us. “Hang on to ya hat!” Peter yelled, as he turned the 4WD onto the tundra and raced towards the now scurrying dog. That particular chase was futile but we did get close to kangaroos, camels and hawks. On the way back to Coober Pedy I was regaled with more stories – from the Afghan cameleers to the unfortunate souls who perished in the desert heat. We arrived back long after dark. The week of celebrations culminated with the Coober Pedy open-air cinema. Held every second weekend it seemed like the whole town had parked up, tuned in, sat back and enjoyed the free ice creams and cheap snacks. It was one of the few above-the-ground activities in town. Of course, like any movie theatre, it began with the “Patrons: Explosives are not to be brought into this theatre” slide, a joke flashback to the old days. Staying in Coober Pedy made me realise it’s not for everyone. To be honest, it can be a little strange – like that uncle you try to avoid at Christmas – but if you’re ready to exchange more than pleasantries and are willing to be surprised, you’ll find that there’s a lot more under the surface of this unique outback town. Original publication: Sunday Star-Times < Previous Next >

TRAVEL Wayang Kulit Yogyakarta, Indonesia Wayang kulit is Indonesia’s centuries-old shadow puppet tradition, dating back to 800AD when puppets were used to worship ancestors. In 2003 UNESCO named wayang kulit as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, and today the shadow puppets are produced on demand for dalang (puppet masters) and collectors who spend tens of thousands of rupiah to expand their collection. Previous Next

Numbering no more than 3,000, the Waorani live on the edge of the Amazon basin. Like many indigenous peoples they are a tribe in transition - hunting with blowguns and poisonous darts is giving way to nightly wi-fi and televised football. TRIBES The Waorani Territorio Waorani, Ecuador Numbering no more than 3,000, the Waorani live on the edge of the Amazon basin. Like many indigenous peoples they are a tribe in transition - hunting with blowguns and poisonous darts is giving way to nightly wi-fi and televised football. < Previous Next >

TRAVEL Timor-Leste Dili, Timor-Leste The history of Timor-Leste (pron. less-tay) is a long and bloody one. After 400 years as a Portuguese colony, a coup in Lisbon encouraged the East Timorese to declare independence in 1975. While the suffering of the past is never far from the country’s collective memory, these days Timor-Leste is on friendly terms with its neighbours, is eager to prosper, and keen to show the world what it has to offer. Previous Next

< Back Winner of National Geographic Traveller Competition 8 Jul 2015 An image taken in the highlands of Papua New Guinea by Guy Needham has won National Geographic Traveller magazine's "Colour My World" photography competition. The image, called Final Touches, is of a Huli tribesman getting ready for a 'sing sing' or traditional dance was taken as he prepared his face. < Previous Next >

< Back Presentation on the Huli 20 May 2014 On Tuesday 3rd June at 6pm Guy Needham, will be talking at the opening of his latest exhibition, The Huli of Papua New Guinea. Part of the Auckland Festival of Photography, Guy will be sharing his experiences with the Huli tribe - the last traditional tribe in the Southern Highlands of Papua New Guinea. < Previous Next >

< Back Opening Night in Melbourne 7 May 2021 Last night saw the opening of The Hadzabe of Tanzania in Melbourne, Australia, where guests found out about the Hadzabe's traditional nomadic lifestyle of dirt, baboons and clicks. The exhibition will be on show through to 22nd May at Ladder Art Space, and features award-winning images that have been shown in Europe, the United States and the UK. < Previous Next >

< Back Warriors with wi-fi 25 Feb 2018 The lead travel story in today's Sunday Star-Times is my experience of meeting the Waorani tribe in the Ecuadorian Amazon - and what I did not expect. From fishing for piranha to going hunting with blowguns, it was the transition the tribe is going through that made the trip so fascinating. Read the full article here. < Previous Next >

< Back Splendid Isolation in D-Photo magazine 27 May 2014 Guy Needham was recently interviewed by D:Photo Magazine. Freelance photographer Guy Needham travels to the little seen parts of the globe to document unique cultures, and for this year’s Auckland Festival of Photography he turns his lens of Papua New Guinea’s indigenous Huli. < Previous Next >

< Back Jaguars in the Jungle 20 Jan 2020 In this coming weekend's Sunday Star-Times you can read all about how I helplessly watched on as my guide was slowly poisoned... ... how children celebrate Christmas in an Amazonian fishing village, how the 'mark of the Matses' is slowly fading with generations, and how I ended up on a Peruvian Air Force sea plane trying to reach the middle of the jungle. < Previous Next >

As the road softly curved under a canopy of maples, rusty reds and golden yellows tumbled to the ground. A solitary man, belt braces strapped over his checked shirt, stood out against the wall of crimson trees. Tailgate down on his Chevy pickup, twin American flags bookending his sign, his bottles of homemade liquid sweetness magnified the sun’s rays. < Back Falling for New England New Zealand Herald 25 Oct 2023 As the road softly curved under a canopy of maples, rusty reds and golden yellows tumbled to the ground. A solitary man, belt braces strapped over his checked shirt, stood out against the wall of crimson trees. Tailgate down on his Chevy pickup, twin American flags bookending his sign, his bottles of homemade liquid sweetness magnified the sun’s rays. This is how you sell maple syrup in Vermont. Fall, as the Americans call autumn, is a golden season in New England and nowhere more so than the Green Mountain State. Ironically, it is when these mountains lose their colour that the ‘Leaf Peepers’ come out to play. Every year thousands of tourists take to Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine and Massachusetts in an effort to catch the most vibrant yellows, burnt bronzes and deep oranges. The trick though, is the timing. ‘Peak Fall’ doesn’t send out a calendar invite in advance, and the degree to which colours change depends on the season before. If the summer is too dry the leaves will change early; too wet and they suffer from fungi and insect attacks. Then, warm sunny days and crisp nights are needed to bring out the bright hues, as the green chlorophyll breaks down and red pigment begins to emerge. Fall’s colour change begins in the higher, cooler areas first and typically runs north to south, so from late September to mid-October people get in their cars and take their chances. Among the destinations: Smugglers Notch, Vermont’s first designated Scenic Highway. At times a narrow sharp-turning lane carved out between boulders and birches, it was here that Mr Maple Syrup was selling his wares. He’d driven 30 miles that morning to find the most picturesque spot on the Notch, but not before his young granddaughters had helped out by ‘testing’ the syrup for sweetness. To the south of his glistening bottles lay one of Vermont’s most quintessential villages, Stowe. A picturesque destination when nearby Mount Mansfield is covered in snow, Stowe is also a beacon for photographers in the fall. Its white church punching through a carpet of colour is the classic New England picture postcard. The trick though, is the timing. ‘Peak Fall’ doesn’t send out a calendar invite in advance As popular as it is pretty, don’t be surprised if you end up sad-faced outside a Stowe restaurant whose earliest availability is next Wednesday, or if you have to queue to enter a boutique store. Thankfully there is more on offer in Stowe like the Annual Pumpkin Chuckin' Festival. Timed for the month of Halloween, the highly competitive event involves three rounds of launching trebuchets to hurl pumpkins as far as possible until they become… squash. Vermont’s Route 100 has long been described as the most scenic road in New England, and even the casual visitor can appreciate its beauty. Quaint red barns stand guard between rolling hills, as the light dapples onto covered bridges. Tourist attractions in their own right, Vermont’s covered bridges are typically made of timber trusses with the majority built in the 1800s for livestock and pedestrians. The reason for the roof? To protect the wooden decking and siding from the harsh elements and rot-inducing rain. Not content with just one covered bridge, the southern Vermont town of Woodstock has three of them. Named ‘The Most Beautiful Town in America’ by Traveller Magazine, and blessed with seriously impressive foliage and charming film-set-worthy buildings, you can see why it’s on many an autumnal itinerary. Woodstock is also a magnet for mountain bikers, turning their head on a swivel, hands hovering over brakes, as they soak in the colours on the outskirts of town. But not everyone welcomes the influx of insta-tourists. In neighbouring Pomfret, Windsor County deputy sheriffs have set up checkpoints after locals voted to keep tourists out, fed up with the damage to the environment, trespassing and trash left behind. Thankfully that behaviour is few and far between and it’s yet to be seen whether the ban will be repeated next fall – or expanded. Across the state line in New Hampshire, things couldn't be more different. The Saco Ranger Station warmly welcomes visitors at the beginning of ‘The Kanc’ - a 34-mile stretch of oaks, aspens and ash trees linking the towns of Conway and Lincoln. Officially named the Kancamagus Highway after Chief Kancamagus who was a leader of a confederacy of native American tribes, The Kanc is the #1 scenic route in all of New Hampshire. The HOGs know it. Harley after Harley roar into the bends, not a helmet to be seen, leather-clad nature lovers living the state motto of ‘Live Free or Die’. At picnic sites they’re joined by Bostonian day trippers and hard core hikers, all appreciating the burst of colour in the White Mountain National Forest. While there is no cellphone coverage in much of The Kanc you can pick up detailed maps at the ranger station for some old-school orientation. The first notable point of interest is the Rocky Gorge Scenic Area where a footbridge leads you past the hornets' nests to a slight hill, revealing shimmering Falls Pond. Six miles on and there’s another reason to pull over: Sabbaday Falls. A short walk from the trailhead takes you to an outstanding waterfall and emerald pool where you can appreciate the fresh scent of crisp leaves drifting down the river. White Mountain National Forest has another Notch on the fall belt - Franconia Notch. Recognised for its scenic vista of Echo Lake surrounded by deep shades of orange and red, the best vantage point is from Artists’ Bluff. Be warned: it’s a steep uneven climb to the rocky outcrop and the track does get busy, but once you reach the top it’s like your phone filter is already set to vivid. Sometimes nature doesn’t play ball. Earlier this year floods hit parts of New England, adding to the woes after a particularly harsh cold snap. While not too detrimental to the changing leaves, this was not the case for other crops. A majority of pumpkin patches were destroyed after being underwater for two days, and the traditional pick-your-own-apples became a ‘next fall’ thing to do. Even the most hardy of corn was affected, with some of the region’s family-friendly corn mazes not opening this season. Thankfully all was not lost, as every restaurant worth its pumpkin still offered its take on New Hampshire’s official state fruit: pumpkin spiced latte, pumpkin ice cream, pumpkin chilli, pumpkin fudge and the ubiquitous fresh pumpkin pie. Of course, if pumpkin isn’t your thing and it’s time to take a break from all that stunning scenery, you don’t have to go far to find bacon pancakes drizzled with home-made, driven 30-miles, tested by granddaughters, maple syrup. Details Plan well in advance as accommodation books out early, and try to avoid weekends if you can The best time for viewing is in the mornings before the heavy traffic and after any fog clears Drones generally aren’t allowed over the national parks so check restrictions before you go. Some park stops require a $5 day pass that can be purchased from a ranger station Vermont Tourism: www.vermontvacation.com Stowe, VT, tourism: gostowe.com Visit New Hampshire: www.visitnh.gov Kancamagus Highway: kancamagushighway.com Smugglers Notch State Park: https://vtstateparks.com/smugglers.html Original publication: New Zealand Herald < Previous Next >